DO NOT PLAN THIS FOR THE WEEKEND.
The Dohány Street Synagogue closes every Saturday (Shabbat) and on Fridays at 14:00 (last entry 13:30). If you show up Saturday morning thinking you'll squeeze it in before lunch, you'll find locked gates and security guards politely turning tourists away. If you arrive Friday at 3:00 PM, same result.
This is a working house of worship, not a museum with tourist-friendly hours. The schedule respects religious observance, as it should. Plan accordingly.
Now that we've addressed the most common mistake, let's talk about why this place matters—and how to experience it properly.
🕍 WHY THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE MATTERS
The Dohány Street Great Synagogue is the largest synagogue in Europe and the second-largest in the world (after Temple Emanu-El in New York). Built between 1854–1859, it seats 3,000 people—1,497 men downstairs, 1,472 women in the upper galleries. The numbers alone don't capture the scale. When you walk inside and see the two-tiered balconies, the massive organ pipes, the ornate Moorish-Byzantine arches, you realize this wasn't just a place of worship. It was a declaration: We are here. We belong. We built this.
Hungarian Jews in the mid-1800s were integrating into Budapest society, achieving prominence in business, medicine, law, and the arts. The synagogue's grandeur reflected that confidence. It looked outward—literally, with facades facing the street—rather than inward like traditional synagogues. It borrowed Christian church architecture (organ, pulpit, pews) to signal modernity and assimilation.
Then came 1944. The Nazis occupied Hungary, established the Budapest Ghetto with the synagogue at its center, and murdered over 500,000 Hungarian Jews in less than a year. The synagogue survived, barely—its courtyard became a mass grave when there was no time to bury the dead elsewhere. The Tree of Life memorial now stands where bodies were buried, each metal leaf inscribed with a victim's name.
This is not just a synagogue. It's a monument to survival, loss, and the refusal to forget.
🎫 TICKETS & PRICING: THE COMBO PASS EXPLAINED
2025 Admission Prices
| Category | Price (HUF) | Approx. EUR |
|---|---|---|
| Adult | 13,000 HUF | ~32-33 EUR |
| Student (with ISIC card) | 10,500 HUF | ~26-27 EUR |
| Child (6-12) | 5,000 HUF | ~12-13 EUR |
| Family (2 Adults + min 2 Kids) | 30,000 HUF | ~75 EUR |
| Budapest Card Holder | 10% discount | ~11,700 HUF |
Important: This is not just entry to the synagogue. Your ticket is a combo pass covering the entire complex:
✅ Great Synagogue (main sanctuary)
✅ Hungarian Jewish Museum (adjacent building, documents Hungarian Jewish history)
✅ Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park (Tree of Life memorial in the courtyard)
✅ Jewish Cemetery (in the courtyard—more on why this exists below)
✅ Heroes' Temple (used for weekday services and memorials)
✅ Ghetto Exhibition (cellar display on the Budapest Ghetto 1944–1945)
✅ Guided tour in English (included, highly recommended—see below)
Why It Costs 13,000 HUF:
This is a museum complex with security, guides, and preservation costs for one of Europe's most significant Jewish heritage sites. The price reflects that scope. If you're visiting multiple museums in Budapest, the Budapest Card's 10% discount (saves ~1,300 HUF) adds up across sites.
🕐 HOURS & SCHEDULING: THE FRIDAY/SATURDAY RULE
2025 Operating Hours (Winter - December)
| Day | Hours | Last Entry |
|---|---|---|
| Sunday–Thursday | 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM | 3:30 PM |
| Friday | 10:00 AM – 2:00 PM | 1:30 PM |
| Saturday | CLOSED | — |
Critical Notes:
- Fridays close at 14:00 (2:00 PM) for Shabbat preparation. Last entry is 13:30 (1:30 PM). If you arrive at 2:15 PM thinking you're early, you're too late.
- Saturdays are always closed for Shabbat observance. No exceptions for tourists.
- Holiday closures: December 24–25, January 1, and Jewish holidays (Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, Passover, etc.). Check the official website before visiting.
Hanukkah (December 14–22, 2025):
Tourist hours remain normal (Sunday–Thursday 10:00–16:00, Friday 10:00–14:00, Saturday closed). No special extensions or restrictions.
Best Times to Visit:
- Sunday–Thursday mornings (10:00–11:30 AM): Fewer crowds, better light inside the sanctuary, tour groups haven't arrived yet.
- Weekday afternoons (2:00–3:30 PM): Moderate crowds, last chance for tours before closing.
Avoid:
- Friday afternoons: Closes at 14:00—too tight for most travelers.
- Saturdays: Closed. Don't try.
🎒 WHAT TO BRING (AND WHAT TO LEAVE BEHIND)
Security: Airport-Style Screening
Expect full security like at an airport:
- Metal detectors
- Bag searches (X-ray scanners)
- Empty pockets, remove belts if needed
Bag Size Limit: Handbags and small backpacks ONLY
- Large backpacks, suitcases, and trolley luggage are prohibited.
- NO luggage storage on-site. If you're arriving from the airport or checking out of your hotel, use a "Stasher" locker service nearby (e.g., Wesselényi utca) before visiting.
What You CAN Bring:
✅ Small daypack or handbag
✅ Phone/camera (photos allowed inside except during services)
✅ Water bottle (clear plastic, under 0.5L)
What You CAN'T Bring:
❌ Large backpacks or suitcases
❌ Food/drinks (except water)
❌ Tripods, selfie sticks
Arrive 10–15 minutes early to clear security without stress.
👗 DRESS CODE: SHOULDERS & KNEES COVERED
This is a holy site, not a museum. Dress respectfully.
Rules (Strictly Enforced):
Women:
- Shoulders must be covered (no tank tops, sleeveless dresses)
- Knees must be covered (skirts/shorts below the knee, or pants)
- Staff will check under coats and outerwear at entry—wearing a jacket over a tank top won't work
Men:
- Shoulders and knees covered (same as women)
- Kippah (skullcap) required inside the sanctuary—free paper kippahs provided at the entrance after ticket validation
What Happens If You Violate the Dress Code:
- Staff will stop you at the entrance.
- You can purchase a shawl/scarf on-site to cover shoulders (cost: ~1,500–2,000 HUF).
- Or you'll be denied entry and forfeit your ticket.
Pro Tip: Just wear pants/jeans and a T-shirt or blouse. Simple, respectful, no drama.
🗣️ THE GUIDED TOUR: WHY YOU MUST TAKE IT
Your 13,000 HUF ticket includes a live guided tour in English. This is not optional upsell—it's part of the admission price.
Why the Tour Matters:
Most visitors wander the complex for 20 minutes, take photos of the sanctuary, see the Tree of Life, and leave—thinking they've "done" the synagogue. They've missed 80% of the story.
The guide explains:
- Why the synagogue looks like a Catholic church (architects weren't Jewish, designed it in Romantic style)
- Why there's a cemetery in the courtyard (against Jewish law, but wartime necessity during the Ghetto siege)
- The hidden history of the Ghetto (starvation, disease, mass executions)
- Raoul Wallenberg's rescue efforts (issuing Swedish protective passports, saving 100,000+ Jews)
- The Tree of Life memorial (each leaf is a Holocaust victim—30,000 names)
Without the guide, you see a pretty building. With the guide, you understand what happened here.
How Tours Work:
- Tours run every 30 minutes (or as groups gather) during operating hours.
- After entering and clearing security, look for the language flags in the courtyard (English, German, French, Spanish, Hebrew, etc.).
- Wait under the English flag. A guide will gather the group and begin the tour.
- Duration: 45–60 minutes.
Critical: Don't Skip the Tour.
This is the most important advice in this entire guide. Wait for the guide. Listen to the guide. The 60 minutes will change how you see Budapest.
🏛️ THE HIGHLIGHTS: WHAT YOU'LL SEE
1. The Main Sanctuary (The Largest in Europe)
When you walk into the sanctuary, the first thing you notice is the sheer scale. Two-tiered balconies wrap around three sides. A massive pipe organ dominates the back wall. Ornate columns and arches in Moorish-Byzantine style reach toward a ceiling painted in gold and blue.
Why It Looks Like a Church:
The architects (Ludwig Förster and Frigyes Feszl) were not Jewish. They designed the synagogue in the Romantic Revival style popular in mid-1800s Europe, borrowing heavily from Christian church architecture:
- Organ: Uncommon in Orthodox synagogues, but used here (Franz Liszt played at the inauguration concert in 1859)
- Pulpit (bimah): Elevated platform at the front, like a Christian altar
- Pews: Fixed seating facing forward, like church benches
This was intentional—Hungarian Jews in the 1850s were integrating into Budapest society and wanted the synagogue to reflect modernity and acceptance, not isolate them as "other."
The Women's Galleries:
Traditional Jewish law separates men and women during worship. Women sat in the upper galleries—1,472 seats total—while men sat below. The balconies are ornate, with carved wood railings and perfect acoustics so women could hear the service.
Lighting & Acoustics:
The sanctuary uses a mix of natural light (from massive chandeliers and stained glass windows) and acoustics designed for choral singing and organ music. It feels more like a concert hall than a traditional synagogue—again, by design.
2. The Tree of Life Memorial (Raoul Wallenberg Memorial Park)
Behind the synagogue, in the courtyard, stands a weeping willow sculpture made of metal—the Tree of Life. Each of the tree's leaves is inscribed with the name of a Holocaust victim. There are over 30,000 names. The tree weeps for them.
This is where the guide will explain Raoul Wallenberg—the Swedish diplomat who issued protective passports ("Schutz-Pass") to Hungarian Jews, sheltering them in safe houses and saving an estimated 100,000 lives. He disappeared in 1945, arrested by Soviet forces, and was never seen again. The memorial honors his sacrifice.
Why It's Powerful:
The leaves aren't anonymous numbers. They're names. Families. People who lived in this neighborhood, attended services in this synagogue, and were murdered within months. The tree forces you to see them as individuals, not statistics.
3. The Jewish Cemetery (In the Courtyard)
This is the most haunting part of the complex. There is a cemetery inside the synagogue courtyard, which violates Jewish law—cemeteries must be separate from holy sites. So why does it exist?
The Wartime Necessity:
In winter 1944–1945, the Budapest Ghetto was sealed. Over 70,000 Jews were crammed into a few city blocks, surrounded by walls and guards. Starvation, disease, and executions killed thousands. Bodies piled up faster than they could be buried in proper cemeteries outside the Ghetto walls.
So they buried the dead here, in the courtyard, in mass graves. After liberation, the bodies were exhumed and reburied in proper Jewish cemeteries—but some graves remain as a memorial to the siege.
What the Guide Explains:
The guide will clarify which graves are original (wartime burials) vs. later memorials. They'll explain the ethical dilemma: Jewish law prohibits this, but survival required it. The cemetery is a scar—a visible reminder that sometimes, survival means breaking sacred rules.
4. The Hungarian Jewish Museum
Attached to the synagogue, the museum documents Hungarian Jewish history from the Roman era through the Holocaust and post-war rebuilding. Highlights include:
- Medieval Torah scrolls and ritual objects
- Documents from the 1944 deportations
- Personal artifacts from Ghetto survivors
- Theodor Herzl exhibit (founder of modern Zionism, born on this site in 1860)
Theodor Herzl Connection:
Herzl, the visionary who proposed a Jewish state (leading to Israel's founding in 1948), was born in a house that once stood where the synagogue now sits. A plaque marks the spot. It's a full-circle moment: the man who dreamed of a Jewish homeland was born steps from the largest synagogue in Europe, which later became the center of the Ghetto where his people were nearly exterminated.
5. The Heroes' Temple
A smaller synagogue behind the main building, used for weekday services and memorial prayers. It's simpler, more intimate, and still in active use by the local Jewish community. Visitors can enter briefly during tours, but it's not a primary highlight.
6. The Ghetto Exhibition (Cellar)
In the basement, a small exhibit documents daily life in the Budapest Ghetto:
- Maps showing the Ghetto boundaries (just a few blocks, crammed with 70,000 people)
- Ration cards (starvation-level food allotments)
- Photos of liberation by Soviet forces (January 1945)
- Testimonies from survivors
This is grim, necessary context. The guide will walk you through it.
📍 GETTING THERE
Address: Dohány utca 2, Budapest 1074
Metro: M2 Red Line to Astoria or Deák Ferenc tér (5-minute walk)
Tram: 47, 49 to Wesselényi utca / Erzsébet körút (2-minute walk)
The synagogue is in the historic Jewish Quarter (District VII), now also known for ruin bars. You'll pass cafés, street art, and kosher restaurants on the walk.
💡 LOCAL EXPERT TIPS
Wait for the Guided Tour
Your ticket includes it. Don't wander alone for 20 minutes and leave. Wait under the English flag in the courtyard. The guide transforms the experience from sightseeing into understanding.
Friday Timing is Tight
Closes at 14:00 (last entry 13:30). If you're visiting Friday, arrive by 11:00 AM to give yourself time for the tour (60 minutes) plus museum/memorials (30 minutes).
Budapest Card Saves Money
The 10% discount (saves 1,300 HUF) adds up if you're visiting multiple museums. The card also includes unlimited public transport—worth it for a 48–72 hour visit.
Combine with Ruin Bars
The Jewish Quarter is also Budapest's nightlife hub. After visiting the synagogue, walk to Szimpla Kert (5 minutes away) for lunch or drinks. The contrast is jarring but intentional—life continues, the neighborhood rebuilt.
Respect the Space
This is a working synagogue, not just a tourist site. Speak quietly, dress appropriately, and remember you're walking where people prayed, hid, died, and survived.
🏁 FINAL CHECKLIST
Before You Go:
- Book for Sunday–Thursday (NOT Friday/Saturday)
- Check official website for holiday closures
- Store luggage at hotel or Stasher (no suitcases allowed)
What to Wear:
- Shoulders covered (no tank tops)
- Knees covered (pants, skirts below knee)
- Men: Bring a hat or use free paper kippah at entrance
What to Bring:
- Small bag only (no large backpacks)
- Phone/camera (photos allowed)
- Water bottle (clear plastic, under 0.5L)
At the Synagogue:
- Arrive 10–15 minutes early for security
- Wait under the English flag for guided tour
- Spend 60+ minutes total (tour + museum + memorials)
🕊️ FINAL THOUGHTS
The Dohány Street Synagogue is beautiful—there's no denying the Moorish arches, the gold ceilings, the grandeur of the largest synagogue in Europe. But beauty isn't why you visit.
You visit to understand what happened here. To see the courtyard where bodies were buried because there was no time for proper funerals. To read 30,000 names on metal leaves and realize each one was a person. To learn about Raoul Wallenberg, who risked everything to save strangers. To stand in a sanctuary that survived when so many who prayed here didn't.
Don't visit on Saturday. Don't skip the guided tour. Don't show up in a tank top.
Arrive respectfully, listen to the guide, and let the weight of the place settle. This is Budapest's Jewish heart—still beating, still here, still remembering.
The tree weeps. But the synagogue stands.
